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Hi all,
小弟近日先發現呢個GROUP,原來好多寶馬朋友在這來,我渣左部車E90 330 一年多了,最近升級左LiFePO4 鐵鋰電池 (已試左成2000公里,好認真的試左...)
我响discuss 度開左支thread, 有興趣可以參考下...
https://www.discuss.com.hk/viewthread.php?tid=27577606
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1) 啟動好快鬼快, 唔識點形容
2)低扭好實淨,由1000 轉上3000轉,再上5000 - 6000 全部都好快,反應好左好多,相信同佢低內阻有關...
深入D既數據資料,我有以下幾個但用英文寫會快D...:
LFP電池base voltage: 12.8V, lead acid 12.0V
14.4V constant voltage can charge the LFP to 100%, but with the alternator output, it will only keep the voltage at 14.05V, which means 90% of battery capacity can be maintained.
For the LFP I used, it's 60AH, so, only around 55AH is inside the battery.
- CCA Testing within this 1000km, it's varies from 1150 to 1200 CCA, it does not rise or drop much, more or less keep stable in this 1000KM journey, while comparing to 90AH AGM, it was around 900CCA to 930CCA
- Internal resistance testing, it's varies from 2.35mOhm to 2.5mOhm , while comparing to AGM, it is around 3.0mOhm to 3.2mOhm
- voltage drop during cold start, the MIN voltage recorded is 11.8V - 11.9V , while i didn't record the AGM, but for 60AH battery, it's very strong
- alternator output test for cold start, I use inpa to monitor the generator AMP from cold start to warm up, there is two case:
1) your battery is full - the max AMP generated from alternator is around 100Amp for around 20 seconds, and eventually drop to 20Amp within 1 minutes, and the charge of battery reach 14.05V
2) your battery is NOT full - the max AMP generated from alternator is 170Amp for over 1-2 minutes, and start to drop when battery voltage reaches 13.8V and then eventually goes down to 14.05V after 2 minutes, and then back to 20Amp.
- temperature test, i don't have equipment, just use hand to test several area, I can say... does not feel any heat/warm on the battery, just normal and usual
drawback to my car with IBS:
- IBS is now partially working, as it no longer able to detect battery capacity when it's in sleep mode, it can still read the battery terminal voltage.
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用後感:
- 有兩次因為玩CODING無插叉機,用左可能10% 電,著車時發現點解個轉數响800RPM成分幾兩分鐘,唔太正常,CHECK完發現BMW佢會MON住個電池電壓,唔夠13.8V時佢會FULL LOAD咁樣差粒電, 成180A... (雖然我極之反對,但始終人地係打南磨,唔係叉機), 跟住慢慢上番14.05V 就正常番)若果粒電好乾的話,真係好容易整死個打南磨..
- 買番來時一定要叉足電, 我買番來時有13.17V, 好似好正常,跟住我用8A既叉機去叉,叉左成4個半鐘CC先慢慢行CV, 所以有成32AH叉左入去, 若果呢32AH 係個打南磨叉既話,真係會整傷部車。。。 (我唔知家陣出邊賣既電池會唔會咁,但呢一樣野大家注意下會安全D)
- 一下重腳的 DME(KL87 點火果邊的VOLTAGE) VOLTAGE DROP 就明顯唔同,之前我AGM 90AH 電壓空轉踏上3000RPM 時, 90AH會跌到13.0V左右, 但家陣果個大部份都係去到13.4V,加速上都好明顯...
所以,若果真係要升級,值得的(當然要考慮價錢,香港果間感覺安全D,但小弟這個平民 貪平去左淘寶搵左間台灣研發既品牌,都有齊認証),因為LFP供電真係好穩定(若果你係玩電腦的,Lead acid = 7200 HARDDISK, AGM = 15000 SCSI Disk, LFP = SSD),當然可以考慮用超級電容做穩壓,但因為佢會慢慢DISCHARGE,所以我無考慮(之前部POLO試過,對突然加速的確有明顯較果)
升級前,確保部車無漏電先,因為粒電池唔係下下滿的話,會好傷個打南磨...
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